One of the most iconic and recognizable materials in the fashion industry is denim. However, the denim industry is controversial and faces many challenges. The problems in the denim industry are threefold: the high level of water consumption (used in the growing of cotton and the washing and dyeing of cotton), the amount of fertilizers and pesticides (used in the cotton growing process as well as the toxic chemicals used in the washing and dyeing process), and the exploitation of workers in factories.
The earth may appear to have an abundant supply of water, but in fact less than one percent is available for human use. The rest is either salt water or inaccessible for human use. As a society, we have become more aware of our water consumption; most of us recognize that it is a limited resource. It is estimated that up to 7600 liters of water is required to make just one pair of jeans (Mukherji, 2020). To put that amount in context, the average Canadian consumes 335 liters of water daily (Danamark, 2022). A lot of water is used to grow the cotton as it must be irrigated and a lot of water is lost to evaporation and in the growing process as fields are irrigated with diverted ground and surface water (Harvey, 2020). Huge amounts of water are also used to dye and wash denim.
More than 3 billion people around the world are affected by water shortages. Data shows the amount of freshwater available for each person has decreased by a fifth over the last two decades. About 1.5 billion people are suffering from severe water scarcity. This is the result of climate change (rising temperatures mean droughts and water scarcity), rising demand and poor water management. Water scarcity has made agriculture increasingly difficult across swathes of the globe. The methods used to grow and irrigate cotton fields are unsustainable.
After the cotton has been harvested it gets removed from bales and it goes through a process called carding where it runs through brushing machines. This machine process turns the cotton into yarn. The yarn is then coloured with a synthetic indigo dye. Large balls of cotton are repeatedly dipped in the blue dye to form layers of color and then it is dipped in a starch. The blue and white yarn is woven on looms. This process is water-intensive. Some jeans are also then prewashed or stonewashed. This results in compounds that must be disposed of such as chlorine and organic pollutants like dye and starch. These shouldn’t be discharged untreated into surface water because resultant oxygen depletion harms aquatic life. Streams near denim manufacturing mills often run blue because of the harmful chemicals released into the water
The first two major challenges in the denim industry affect the environment. The next major issue is related to labour. Denim factory workers are mostly uneducated women who are not paid a living wage and are therefore living in poverty. These exploited workers are working in terrible conditions and poorly treated - they work long hours with few or no breaks. It is morally shameful to take advantage of and exploit another being. This is reprehensible and needs to be stopped immediately.
What can we as consumers do to rectify these issues? We can reduce our consumption and refuse to buy fast fashion or trendy denim pieces. Many fast fashion purchases are short lived; they are worn for a season and then discarded or donated. Fast fashion is just that: it’s made for quick wear, not for longevity. Stick to denim pieces that are timeless and high quality. Thrift your denim pieces or consider vintage shops or flea markets. Invest in pieces that will stand the test of time. Stick to denim you know is high quality and is a design you can see yourself wearing for a long period of time. And lastly, donate your unneeded denim instead of just throwing it out - or offer it to friends and family. You might even consider repurposing fabrics by sewing them into new uses.
References
https://www.fluencecorp.com/blue-jeans-water-footprint
https://www.downloadango.com/blog/the-environmental-and-social-impact-of-the-denim-industry